"It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end" - Ernest Hemingway
Having a housesit in Traverse City, Michigan, has evolved into a very meaningful and reflective stop along our nomadic journey. Before our Next Grand Adventure, we had never considered touring this uniquely beautiful, historic, and gastronomically (i.e., for foodies like us!) rich area. Wow, are we glad to know it now!A prime example of our delight was a day trip we took north on M31, passing through Charlevoix and Petoskey from Traverse City. Our homeowners had suggested seeing the "mushroom homes" in Charlevoix - and whenever a local tells us to visit this or that - we always go, hence the road trip!
As for the titling of this post, the "Gypsy Spirits", you can probably guess, there's more to it - we'll explain below. As for "Gettin' Lit"... given the terrain, we deduced that this area would have a multitude of lighthouses/stations - and it does! One of the more picturesque is on the waterfront in Charlevoix - crystal clear water with the rocks glimmering like a dance troupe on the embankment - stunning!
And then there are the Mushroom Houses in Charlevoix, Michigan; a collection of 28 unique homes and commercial buildings designed by self-taught builder Earl Young between the 1920s and 1950s. Known for their whimsical, organic, "Hobbit-like" appearance, these structures use native stones, limestone, and boulders complemented with wavy rooflines to blend seamlessly into the landscape. We were captivated by the structures - these are more than whimsical structures, they are expressions of artistic license and creativity (even got us thinking of building a "tiny house" with some of that playful vibe!).From there, we worked our way up M33, reading up on the "Petoskey stone" along the route, which was named Michigan's state stone in 1965 (who woulda thunk!?). These stones are the fossilized remains of 350-million-year-old rugose coral. They are a tangible link to a time when Michigan was located near the equator and covered by a shallow, tropical sea. The stones were scattered across the Lower Peninsula by ancient glaciers during the last ice age and can be found along the shoreline (hence the name "Petosky stones"). And while in Rome, do as the Romans, right? So, we became novice "Petoskey Stone Hunters" - and yes we did find a few - it was like hunting for dinosaur bones, except it's legal to keep these!
Petoskey and the surrounding area also lay claim to Ernest Hemingway’s early life, serving as his summer home for the first 22 years of his life and inspiring many of his early short stories, including many in The Nick Adams Stories series. There's no short supply of his portrait in area stores, including one prominently displayed by the City Park Grill. The restaurant is historically significant as a favorite hangout of Hemingway's where he wrote, played pool, drank, and sat at the same spot on the mahogany bar. We had lunch there - the best beer-battered perch Jer has had in decades, reminded him of eating up at his grandpa's cottage in Green Lake, Wisconsin.
After finding our fill of Petoskey stones, we began to make our way back down M31 and recalled spotting the Gypsy Distillery perched atop a hill. We were struck by the beauty of the building (a converted equestrian center) with a comfortable bar that looked out to the event and distillery area (huge and roomy).
We sat at the bar and the staff was very welcoming, explaining the tasting options, which included vodkas, gin and bourbons. The menu listed an 8-year bourbon, but the bartender noted that it wouldn't be available until the following week, as it had not yet been bottled. Jer countered with his pouty face, complaining that we would already be heading back to Illinois by then.
Shortly after, one of the founders of the distillery made his way to us and commented that they could ship us a bottle; while Jer continued his pretend pouty face, "but we're here now, we drove all the way from Chicago to see you!" Michael smiled and told Jer to wait and that he'd see what he could do. Ten minutes later, he returned with a cask-strength sample of one of his 6-year bourbons from his private stock!
It warmed our hearts to be treated with such hospitality (hence the photo at the top of this post). We knew we had encountered a clan of kindred souls with adventuresome hearts! Michael gave Jer one of his wooden (for real!) business cards, which carried a definition on the back of a "gypsy soul" - just like us! As we drove back to Traverse City, we reflected on the unique sights and people we had encountered along the way... and have much gratitude for being so blessed!






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