Learning the Ropes along the Coast of Maine

 

"On ships with sails, there can be upwards of 130 named ropes that make up the rigging. Each rope has a specific function, and sailors are required to know what each does. When a new deck hand has joined a crew, they are taken under the wing of a senior hand and taught what each rope does. The newbie is literally learning the ropes." 

As self-proclaimed "temporary locals" we have been housesitting in the small coastal town of Searsport Maine for the past month. The famous (or more appropriately 'infamous') Route 1 that runs through town has made for a great track to make day trips up and down the coast and that's good because its the only way in or out of many areas!

As we've "learned the ropes" housesitting over the past four years we've adopted curiousness about the local norms that we encounter in different areas of our country and this has been especially true in Maine. 

One of the first things we learned here came about by visiting Maine's oldest maritime museum right here in town. Founded in 1936, The Penobscot Marine Museum is designed to preserve and educate people regarding Maine's and Searsport's rich and unique maritime and shipbuilding history. And it was there during an interactive tour that we (literally) learned the ropes... we've been referencing that phrase for decades, but as midwestern land-lubbers, had no idea of it's origin or meaning. Finally understanding, we just looked at each other with an AHHA grin, no words required!

And then there's the fierce "can do" attitude we  encounter from those we meet along the coast who call this area home. As Google AI puts it... "Coastal Mainers are distinct in their strong maritime history, a rugged, jagged coastline shaped by geologic processes, and an independent culture that developed from contending with harsh conditions and limited arable land."  As "Rusticators" we've come to clearly understand that we are outsiders no matter how polite people are. (The term “rusticators” is used to describe families who came to spend long summers on the coast of Maine but didn't 'belong.' Rusticators started arriving in the late 1800's.)

 Seemingly unique to Maine, inhabitants rarely use their front doors. Cape style rectangular homes are very common in this area... and it's also clear that through the decades additions were added to the rear of the original homes making for an elongated set of attached buildings. That configuration made it more practical to use the side or rear doors (historically the front door was reserved for important guests). Goes without saying - we're never entered through the front door anywhere during our stay here in Maine!

And while on the subject of homes, let's not overlook one of the most unique features of classic seaport homes... the Widows Watch. Up and down the coast, particularly in port towns, one can still spot many homes dating back to the 1800's with enclosed towers on the top of their roofs. Tradition has it this is where the spouse walked and paced looked for sightings of her husband and his ship coming back to port. 

One of the reasons for Widow Walks is the serious hazards to seamen skillfully making their way back to port (seems to us that the modern day version is drivers navigating Route 1) so as not to run aground!  As Mike Clair from the National Weather Service puts it, "Maine has some bragging rights on the weather phenomenon—we’re one of three “hot spots” in the U.S., and one of three regions in the world that see daytime fog in the summer. The Midcoast and Penobscot Bay regions are prime environments for fog."  And Searsport sits almost centerpoint in fog country - as we can testify!  Like a fog machine on a musical stage, depending on the tides, the mist will begin to roll into the bay encouraged by a tidal breeze.  It's actually pretty awesome to watch mother nature at work!  

In conclusion, no discussion of Maine is complete without mention of one their unique dining establishments; lobster pounds and Lobster rolls (Lobster rolls in Maine have lobster meat that is usually served cold, rather than warm or hot, and mayonnaise is typically spread inside the bun or tossed with the meat).  Well, if its the real deal, they're not really restaurants, but literally pounds that hold lobsters in preparation to go to market.  They consist of simple set ups with picnic tables and food is served on aluminum trays once your number is called.  You'll find these establishments in port towns, usually down by the same piers where the lobstermen dock and unload their traps with the day's catch. Once you've had a Maine lobster hand picked from The Pound, you'll be a lobster snob connoisseur from that day forward - ain't nothin' fresher or tastier! 

We've come to appreciate the somewhat salty-like-sea Mainers particularly along the coast.  They are often rugged like the coastline and sometimes as colorful as the wild red rugosa roses that often grow there, comfortable with the salt mist that accompanies the tidal breezes.  We highly recommend adding a road trip along the Maine coast to your bucket list! 

“When life gives you lemons, order the lobster tail.” — Ziad K. Abdelnour